- Purchase seeds at the local garden center, or for an abundant supply of free seeds, harvest dry and brittle seedpods from spent plants in the garden after frost has quickened their demise, generally in September or October. Pick out the plumpest pods for the most seeds. Cut the flower heads open and allow them to dry on shallow trays. When the heads dry completely, seeds readily separate from the chaff. When this happens, store the dried seeds in a sealed container, such as a canning jar, and place in a cool, dry location until it's time to start next year's crop of dahlias.
- Using any commercially available starting medium or your own potting-soil concoction, sow seeds indoors in flats anytime from January to March, depending on the date of the last killing frost in the local area. Cover the seeds lightly with potting soil, water thoroughly, keep moist and expect germination in a week to 10 days.
- When dahlias develop leaves, move them to individual pots. Keep the future transplants inside and watered well, providing 4 to 5 hours of sunlight daily for best results. When all danger of frost has passed and the plants reach a height of 6 to 8 inches, set them out in the garden 18 inches to 3 feet apart, depending on the maturity size of the variety planted.
- Forces of nature, such as wind, heavy rains or hail, easily damage dahlias stems. As such, dahlia enthusiasts should stake these tender perennials to avoid permanent damage. Dahlias respond well to frequent, deep watering. If weather systems do not provide the required rainfall of 1 inch per week during the blooming season, water deeply once every three days. Since dahlias are heavy feeders, apply a 5-10-10 fertilizer as a side dressing to each plant shortly after transplanting and again in late July. Use ¼ cup per plant, gently raking the fertilizer into the soil, taking care not to damage the shallow dahlia root system. Avoid getting water or fertilizer on the foliage. Pinch off dead flowers to encourage repeat blooming.
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