- 1). Mark each component, its corresponding turret on the circuit board and the symbol on the schematic with a colored marker pen. Color-code the remaining components in the same way. This makes cross-referencing the schematic and circuit quicker.
- 2). Fit the resistors, capacitors, relay coils and transformers into the relevant board turret. If you are using a self-assembly kit, the board is typically pre-drilled to the correct size, so it's impossible to fit the wrong component in a turret. If you purchased your parts separately, use the schematic as a guide when populating the board. Because the resistors are low voltage, they allow a greater current to pass from the capacitors, which is what makes the amplifier high frequency.
- 3). Place the board face-down and flatten the connector pins against the copper conductor strip on the base of the board.
- 4). Heat the connector pins by pressing the untinned tip of your soldering iron against them for a few seconds.
- 5). Melt a small amount of rosin core solder onto the tip of the iron. This is called tinning. Press the tinned tip against the connector pin and copper strip at the same time. This fuses the component to the board. Do this for every component. This connects the components to the board. The completed circuit is lightweight and small, making it suitable for use in a mobile amp.
- 6). Mount the frequency meter window into the pre-drilled rectangular hole in the front of the chassis. Screw it into the inside of the front panel using circuit board screws.
- 7). Mount an RCA jack into the smaller holes on either side of the chassis. Fasten the outside of the jack barrel to the chassis with the supplied washer.
- 8). Cut three 2-inch pieces of wire. Trim 1/8 inch from each end to expose the braided metal. This makes it easier to solder.
- 9). Screw the power supply socket into the square hole on the back of the chassis.
- 10
Solder one wire to the output terminal of each jack and one wire to the output terminal of the frequency meter window. - 11
Solder the frequency meter window wire to the eyelet next to the nearest capacitor. - 12
Solder the wire attached to the jack on the right of the chassis, as you look at the front, to the eyelet in front of the nearest resistor. - 13
Solder the left-hand jack wire to the eyelet directly behind the nearest resistor. - 14
Solder the red wire attached to each battery snap to the positive eyelet on the circuit board. Solder the black wires to the negative eyelet. Using a three 9-volt batteries instead of a DC adapter jack means you can power this amp anywhere, making it suitable for mobile use. - 15
Screw down the chassis top to enclose the chassis.
- Advertisement -
- Advertisement -