- 1). Use a black sanding disk mounted on a 175-rpm rotary floor machine to abrade the old finish. The old finish does not have to be completely removed, but the shine should be eliminated. When sanding is complete, vacuum the dust with a wet/dry vacuum.
- 2). Tack the floor by placing damp Turkish towels soaked in a water-based wood floor cleaner over a large dust mop. The towels should not be wringing wet because you do not want water to seep between the separate boards. Clean the floor with the damp towels, replacing the towels when they become dirty or dry.
- 3). Work in small 4-foot by 6-foot sections. Start by pouring a 4-inch wide line of finish along the floor near the far wall. Use the t-bar applicator to spread the finish by outlining the section along the edge, bottom, and opposite edge of the 6-foot side of the section. Fill in the remainder of the first section by drawing the t-bar from edge to edge until the entire first section has been completely filled in with finish. Proceed in sections until the entire floor has been covered. Avoid painting yourself into a corner; end your job so the last section is next to a door or exit.
- 4). Allow three hours before repeating step 3 with a second coat of floor finish. The second coat may be walked on after 24 hours, but it will take seven days for the floor to be fully cured. Prior to complete curing, the floor will be susceptible to scuffing and should not be cleaned with water during the first week.
- 5). Avoid placing any heavy equipment on the floor until the floor has cured for at least one week. After that, maintain the floor with a water-based wood floor cleaner and use water-based dust mop treatment.
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