While we're on the subject of zesty foods, Vincent writes, "I've been scouring for recipe for Sicilian sfingiuni, sometimes spelled sfinghi, that bread-like pizza with beaucoup imported anchovies, made with semolina, unbleached flour, and no tomato sauce. Found occasionally in the older Sicilian homes 'way back when but impossible to find a recipe."

The only sfinci Pino Correnti mentions in his Libro D'Oro della Cucina e dei Vini di Sicilia (Murzio Editore) are sweet.

However, he does give a recipe for Pizza Fritta or Calzone Siciliano, which sounds close:

• 1 1/3 pounds (600 g) risen bread dough (buy this from your baker)
• 1 pound (400 g) fresh tuma (a soft, mild cheese), thinly sliced
• 8 ounces (200 g) chives finely minced
• 2 ounces (50 g) anchovy fillets, boned and shredded
• Olive oil or rendered lard, salt, and black pepper
• Olive oil or rendered lard for frying

Knead the dough for a few minutes and divide it into six small loaves. Dust them with flour and put them in a warm place for about an hour. Next, roll them out to a quarter inch (1/2 cm) and cover half of each disk with slices of cheese, minced chives, and shredded anchovies. Salt lightly and dust with freshly ground black pepper, and drizzle a little oil or some bits of lard over each. Fold the disks over to obtain large ravioli shaped like half moons. Fry them in enough oil or lard to allow them to float, until they are golden.